Treatment options for hyperpigmentation

Hyperpigmentation – What to do?

8 treatment methods for hyperpigmentation

Changing environmental conditions bring more and more sunshine. Skin is increasingly exposed to stress and damage. The impact of sunlight and the resulting increase in UV radiation on the skin should not be taken lightly. UV rays directly impact the health of our skin. It's also important to remember that excessive sun exposure outdoors or in tanning salons increases the risk of developing skin cancer, regardless of skin type.

Science divides skin into five types

Type I very light skin color

Type II light skin color

Type III medium-light skin color

Type IV brownish or olive-colored skin even when untanned

Type V dark to light brown skin even when untanned

Type VI dark brown to black skin even when untanned

https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hauttyp

One might think that dark skin types have an advantage over lighter skin types. But that's not the case. However, there are more than just visual differences; dark skin, for example, regenerates 2.5 times faster than lighter skin. But even dark skin is affected by excessive sunlight. This can lead to skin irritation, inflammation, and pigmentation disorders.

Pigments, or melanins, are responsible for the different hair and skin colors. They are produced by so-called melanocytes (pigment cells) and enrich the skin. Skin colors do not differ in the number of melanocytes, but their structure and grouping do.

Dark skin doesn't sunburn as easily as light skin, but it's just as vulnerable to intense and prolonged sun exposure. Even with dark skin, you shouldn't neglect sun protection. Skin damage in dark-skinned people manifests itself as unevenness and skin discoloration. Dark spots can form, which can develop into pigmentation disorders. This is known as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH).

Such spots can heal and disappear over time, but there's a risk they'll persist. Therefore, both women and men with black skin should pay attention to sun protection and never neglect it. Effective protection from direct sunlight is the best way to prevent pigmentation disorders.

What can you do if you suffer from hyperpigmentation?

Hyperpigmentation is a medical term used to describe dark spots on the skin. These are caused by excessive melanin production, which can have other causes besides sunlight. Acne scars, excessive UV exposure, and even hormonal fluctuations can also be responsible.

First, you should consult a dermatologist, who can medically assess the problem areas and prescribe treatment. Of course, there are also treatments and products for prevention and care that can be used without consulting a doctor.

Online retailers make it easy to purchase beauty and skin care products that aren't readily available everywhere. However, you should only buy products from reputable retailers and manufacturers. The American Academy of Dermatology advises that when purchasing over-the-counter skin lighteners, make sure the product doesn't contain mercury.

Below, you'll learn about several ways to treat hyperpigmentation. We'll describe products and treatments that you can use at home. Other therapies can only be performed in a dermatologist's office or with professional help. We also warn about potential risks associated with their use.

1. Lightening creams

Lightening creams are designed to reduce skin pigmentation with selected ingredients. Most products are available over-the-counter as creams or gels. Stronger products are also available, but these require a doctor's prescription.

The following active ingredients are typically found in over-the-counter products:

Hydroquinone

Licorice extract

N-acetylglucosamine

Vitamin B-3 (niacinamide)

Recommended use

These creams work best on flat spots, such as melasma or age spots. They are effective for discoloration on most skin types. While over-the-counter products are available quickly and without a doctor's visit, they can take longer to lighten skin. Prescription products contain more potent active ingredients and must therefore be used under a doctor's instructions and supervision.

Recommendations

Murad Past Acne Spot Lightening Gel – With two percent hydroquinone, even old acne scars fade. Can also be used for acne prevention.

ProActiv Hydrator – to perfect your complexion. Ideal for oily skin. This product reduces redness and also works on hyperpigmentation.

2. Skin peels with acids

Acid treatments are intended to remove the top layer of skin; this is also known as peeling. After the treatment, the skin immediately begins to replace the removed layer. This evens out the skin tone and makes it smoother. There are various types of acids and peels available from specialist retailers (drugstores, beauty salons).

The following active ingredients are usually found in the products:

Alpha hydroxy acids such as glycolic, lactic, citric, malic or tartaric acid

Azelaic acid

Kojic acid

Salicylic acid

Vitamin C (in the form of L-ascorbic acid)

Recommended use

Acid peels work well on lighter skin tones.

Recommendations

You should be cautious with over-the-counter products with an acid content of more than 10%. Higher acidity carries the risk of severe side effects. These risks can be better assessed by experts.

Product recommendations

FAB Skin Lab Resurfacing Liquid 10% AHA – This daily serum is based on malic acid and improves natural skin tone while reducing the appearance of large pores.

ProActiv brand correction pads – These pads combine glycolic and salicylic acid to exfoliate the skin, helping to reduce acne scars.

The following products can be easily purchased online:

Malic acid

Glycolic acid

Salicylic acid

3. Retinoids

Retinoids, which are used in over-the-counter products, are among the oldest known skincare ingredients. They are derived from vitamin A and, due to their small molecular structure, can penetrate deep into the skin. This allows them to reach and treat even the deepest layers of the epidermis.

Prescription retinoid products are also available. If non-prescription retinoids don't work after a few months, you should ask your dermatologist about products containing the retinoid tretinoin (Retin-A).

Recommended use

Over-the-counter retinoids are generally safe for all skin types, but people with dark or black skin should be cautious. Especially if retinoids are used for a long period of time, this should only be done after consulting a dermatologist. Retinoids are not the first-choice treatment for hyperpigmentation, as they are more commonly used for wrinkle reduction.

Product recommendations

Differin Gel – If you have skin problems, this gel should be the first thing you try, as it helps with hyperpigmentation and acne. Differin Gel has recently become available over the counter.

Purely organic anti-aging night cream – This type of night cream is a combination of retinoids and hyaluronic acid. This combination is ideal for combating age spots, dryness, and wrinkles.

A variety of retinoid applications can be found online.

4. Chemical peels

Chemical peels also use acids. However, the acids used in these cases are more concentrated than those used in the skin peels listed in point 3. This method removes the top layer of skin (epidermis) in the area where it is applied, removing hyperpigmentation. Stronger concentrations can even penetrate the middle layer of the skin (dermis) and produce even more impressive results.

Chemical peels are available over the counter. However, truly effective peels should be performed by a cosmetic professional or, even better, a dermatologist. These treatments produce faster results and are more effective.

The side effects of higher acid concentrations can be better assessed and treated in a doctor's office. Side effects can also occur with over-the-counter peels. Redness, irritation, and blisters can develop, leaving unsightly scars. Chemical peels should not be used if you have to spend time in the sun regularly. The top layer of skin removed due to the peel cannot adequately protect the underlying layers and is therefore likely to worsen hyperpigmentation. After a peel, you should make sure to apply sufficiently strong sunscreen or avoid exposure to the sun or UV radiation for at least a week. The risk of developing skin cancer is also many times higher.

Recommended use

Chemical peels are recommended for:

Age spots

Sun damage

Melasma

spotty skin

Chemical peels are best suited for lighter skin tones. They deliver faster results than facial peels with acids.

Product recommendations

If you want to use a professional but over-the-counter peeling, then you should Glycolic acid peeling from Exuviance This peeling has the advantage of being used up to twice a week. It also successfully helps reduce wrinkles.

Juice Beauty is a manufacturer that offers several types of chemical peels that also smooth the skin. For sensitive skin, the Green Apple Peel Sensitive .

People with dark or black skin should consult a cosmetic professional or dermatologist for this type of peel. They can also help choose the right product for your skin.

5. Laser Peeling (skin rejuvenation)

A laser is a device that focuses light beams. This allows the light to be precisely directed onto a specific spot. The intensity, or strength, of the light can also be controlled. The focusing and precise targeting make this technology so important for the treatment of pigmentation disorders. The two types of lasers used in laser peel (resurfacing) treatments are ablative and non-ablative lasers.

The lasers are used to destroy elements of the skin. This causes new skin cells to grow back firmer. Ablative lasers are intense and ablate skin, while non-ablative lasers work in the dermis, stimulating collagen growth and tightening processes. Mild side effects should be expected with the ablative method.

Recommended use

The ablative laser method is said to produce better results on lighter skin. Since skin varies from person to person, it also reacts differently. It can even happen that a non-ablative laser achieves the exact opposite, with the skin becoming darker rather than lighter. In this case, too, you should consult a dermatologist to achieve optimal results.

6. Intensive Pulsed Light Therapy (IPL)

Another type of laser therapy is IPL therapy, which is performed using a non-ablative laser. It also targets the dermis, where the rays stimulate collagen growth. This is also called photofacial therapy and typically requires several sessions.

The IPL method is used for general problems with pigmentation disorders. A positive side effect is the reduction of spider veins, enlarged pores, and wrinkles. The IPL method achieves best results on flat areas of skin.

Recommended use

Like laser peeling, IPL works best on light skin.

7. Microdermabrasion

Microdermabrasion is a procedure in which the top layers of skin are gently removed using small (micro) particles. This procedure can be performed at home, but the best results are achieved by specialists (dermatologists or aestheticians) who perform this treatment daily.

The treatment itself is performed with a handheld device and is comparable to sandblasting, except that the skin is treated very gently. Visible results require several treatment sessions.

Recommended use

The best results are achieved with superficial scars and in people with fair skin. A dermatologist should be consulted before treatment.

8. Dermabrasion

Like microdermabrasion, dermabrasion involves removing the top layers of skin, but it goes deeper. Therefore, a dermatologist's office should be consulted for this treatment as well.

This method smooths wrinkles and treats texture problems in the upper layer of the skin. The following problem areas can be effectively treated.

Recommended use

Acne scars

Age spots

Scars from chickenpox

Scars from injuries

Damage caused by excessive sun exposure

The treatment itself is similar to microdermabrasion, except this approach goes deeper and removes more tissue. Dermabrasion also produces faster results.

This method is very suitable for problem areas on light skin. In medium skin tones, further hyperpigmentation may develop after treatment, but this is not necessarily permanent and often subsides after about eight weeks.

Which method for which skin type?

Skin type always plays a crucial role in the aforementioned treatment methods. Experts say that some treatment methods are suitable for people with light, medium, and dark skin tones. However, the darker the skin type, the longer it takes to complete the treatment. Light skin responds well to most treatments for hyperpigmentation.

If you have darker skin or skin that tans easily, you should not consider the following treatments:

Intensive laser beams

IPL therapy

The following treatment methods are recommended for darker skin:

Glycolic acid peeling

Kojic acid peeling

Over-the-counter lightening creams

Microdermabrasion

Gentle chemical peels

Low-intensity laser treatments

Topical treatments always take a little longer to produce visible results. Therefore, patience is required to achieve good results.

As already mentioned when introducing the various treatment methods, it's important to consult a dermatologist if you have hyperpigmentation. They'll be best placed to assess which method is appropriate for your specific problem and skin type. They can work with you to develop a treatment plan.

In general, however, it can be said that the more intense sunlight and the resulting increase in UV radiation caused by global environmental changes require better protection of the skin. This is the best way to prevent sun damage and hyperpigmentation. For people with fair and sensitive skin, applying sunscreen daily in the summer is a must – even if the sky is only clear to cloudy. The sunscreen you use should not be below factor 30.