Treatment options for hyperpigmentation

Hyperpigmentation - What to do?

8 Treatment methods for hyperpigmentation

The changing environmental conditions bring more and more sunshine. The skin is increasingly stressed and attacked. The influence of sunlight and the resulting increase in UV radiation on the skin should not be taken lightly. UV rays directly affect the state of our skin health. It should also not be forgotten that excessive exposure to the sun outdoors or UV radiation in a tanning salon increases the risk of developing skin cancer, regardless of the skin type.

Science divides the skin into five types

Type I very light skin colour

Type II light skin colour

Type III medium fair complexion

Type IV brownish or olive skin even when untanned

Type V dark to light brown skin even when untanned

Type VI dark brown to black skin even when untanned

https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hauttyp

You might think that dark skin types would have an advantage compared to light skin types. But this is not the case. However, there are not only optical differences, dark skin renews itself 2.5 times faster than light skin, for example. But dark skin is also affected by too much sunlight. Skin irritations, inflammations and pigment disorders can occur.

Pigments or melanins are responsible for the different hair and skin colours. They are formed by so-called melanocytes (pigment cells) and enrich the skin. The skin colours do not differ in the number of melanocytes, but the structure and grouping are different.

Dark skin does not get sunburned as easily as light skin, but it is just as vulnerable to intense and prolonged sun exposure. You should not neglect sun protection even with dark skin. Skin damage in dark-skinned people manifests itself in bumps and skin discolouration. Dark spots can form, which can develop into pigmentation disorders. This is called post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH).

Such spots can heal and disappear after a certain time, but there is a risk that they will remain. Therefore, women as well as men with black skin should pay attention to sun protection and not neglect it under any circumstances. Effective protection from direct sunlight is the best way to prevent pigmentation disorders.

What can you do if you suffer from hypergigmentation?

Hyperpigmentation is a medical term that describes dark patches of skin. These are caused by excessive melanin production, which can also have other causes apart from sunlight. Acne scars or excessive influence of UV radiation and also hormone fluctuations can also be responsible.

First, one should consult a dermatologist or dermatologist who can assess the problem areas from a medical point of view and prescribe a therapy. Of course, there are also applications and products for prevention and care that can be used without consulting a doctor.

Retailers on the internet nowadays make it easy to buy beauty and skin care products that you can't buy everywhere. But you should only buy products from reputable retailers and manufacturers. The American Academy of Dermatology advises that when buying over-the-counter skin lighteners, make sure the product does not contain mercury.

Below you will learn several ways in which hyperpigmentation can be treated. Products and treatments that can be used at home are described. Other therapies can only be performed in a dermatologist's office or with professional help from specialists. We also warn about possible dangers of the application.

1. whitening creams

Lightening creams are designed to reduce skin pigmentation with selected ingredients. The majority of products are available over-the-counter as creams or gels. Stronger products are also available, but must be prescribed by a doctor.

The following active ingredients are usually found in over-the-counter products:

Hydroquinone

Liquorice extract

N-acetylglucosamine

Vitamin B-3 (niacinamide) 

Recommendation for use

These creams work best on flat spots, such as melasma or age spots. They are effective for discolouration in most skin types. You can get the over-the-counter products quickly and without a doctor's visit, but it may take longer to lighten the skin if you use these products. Prescription products contain stronger active ingredients, but must also be used under a doctor's direction and supervision.

Recommendations

Murad Past Acne Spot Aufhellungsgel – mit zwei Prozent Hydrochinon verblassen selbst alte Aknenarben. Auch für die Akne-Vorbeugung verwendbar.

ProActiv Hydrator – zur Perfektion ihres Teints. Sehr gut geeignet bei fettiger Haut. Dieses Produkt reduziert Rötungen und wirkt auch bei Hyperpigmentierung.

2. skin peels with acids

 

Acid treatments are intended to remove the top layer of skin, this is also called peeling. After the treatment, the skin immediately begins to replace the removed layer of skin. This evens out the skin's tone and makes it smoother. There are different types of acids and peelings that can be purchased in specialised shops (drugstores, beauty salons).

The following active ingredients are usually found in the products:

Alpha-hydroxy acids, such as glycolic, lactic, citric, malic or tartaric acid

Azelaic acid

Kojic acid

Salicylic acid

Vitamin C (in the form of L-ascorbic acid) 

Recommendation for use

Peels with acids work well on lighter skin tones.

Recommendations

You should be careful with over-the-counter product offers with an acid content of more than 10%. A higher acid content carries the risk of strong side effects. These dangers can be better assessed by professionals.

Product recommendations

FAB Skin Lab Resurfacing Liquid 10% AHA –  Dieses täglich anzuwendende Serum basiert auf Apfelsäure und verbessert den natürlichen Hautton. Gleichzeitig wird das Erscheinungsbild großer Poren reduziert.

ProActiv Markenkorrektur-Pads – In diesen Pads werden Glykol- und Salicylsäure kombiniert zum Peelen der Haut eingesetzt. Aknenarben werden damit ebenfalls reduziert.

The following products can be purchased online very well:

Malic acid

Glycolic acid

Salicylic acid

3. retinoids

Retinoids, which are used in non-prescription products, are among the oldest known skin care ingredients. They are derived from vitamin A and can penetrate deep into the skin due to their small molecular structure. This means that even deep layers of the epidermis can be reached and treated.

There are also prescription retinoid products. If the non-prescription retinoids do not show any effect after a few months, then you should ask your dermatologist about products with the retinoid tretinoin (Retin-A).

Recommendation for use

Over-the-counter retinoids are actually safe for all skin types, but people with dark or black skin should be cautious. Especially if retinoids are used over a long period of time, this should only be done after consultation with a dermatologist's office. Retinoids are not the first choice of treatment for hyperpigmentation as they are more commonly used for wrinkle reduction.

Product recommendations

Differin Gel – Bei Hautproblemen sollte dieses Gel als erstes ausprobiert werden, da es bei Hyperpigmentierung, wie auch bei Akne hilft. Differin Gel ist seit kurzem auch rezeptfrei zu kaufen.

Rein biologische Anti-Aging-Nachtcreme – Diese Art von Nachtcreme ist eine Kombination aus Retinoiden und Hyaluronsäure. Diese Kombination ist ideal um Altersflecken, Trockenheit und Falten zu bekämpfen.

A variety of retinoid applications can be found online.

4. chemical peels

Chemical peels also use acid. But the acids used in these cases are more concentrated than in the skin peels under point 3. This method removes the top layer of skin (epidermis) in the skin area where it is applied and removes hyperpigmentation. Stronger concentrations can even penetrate the middle layer of skin (dermis) and achieve even more impressive results.

Chemical peels are available over the counter. However, really effective peels should rather be done by a cosmetic professional or even better by a dermatologist. These treatments give faster results and are more effective.

The side effects of the higher concentrated acids can be better assessed and treated in a doctor's office. Side effects can also occur with over-the-counter peels. Redness, irritation and blisters can form, leaving ugly scars. Chemical peels should not be used if you are regularly exposed to the sun. The missing top layer of skin due to peeling cannot adequately protect the underlying layers of skin and so is likely to exacerbate hyperpigmentation. After a peel, care should be taken to apply strong enough sunscreen or avoid exposure to sun or UV rays for at least a week. The risk of developing skin cancer is then also many times higher.

Recommendation for use

Chemical peels are advised for:

Age spots

Sun damage

Melasma

blotchy skin

Chemical peels are best used for lighter skin tones. They provide faster results than facial peels with acids.

Product recommendations

Wenn Sie ein professionelles, aber frei verkäufliches Peeling verwenden wollen, dann sollten Sie ein Glykolsäure-Peeling von Exuviance in die engere Wahl nehmen. Dieses Peeling hat den Vorteil, dass es bis zu zweimal die Woche angewendet werden kann. Es hilft auch erfolgreich bei der Reduzierung von Falten.

Juice Beauty ist ein Hersteller, der mehrere Arten von chemischen Peelings anbietet, die auch die Haut glätten. Für empfindliche Haut empfiehlt sich das Green Apple Peel Sensitive.

People with dark or black skin colour should better consult cosmetic professionals or a dermatologist's office for this type of peeling. They will also help you choose the right product for your skin.

5. laser peeling (skin refreshment)

A laser is a device in which light beams are bundled. This means that the light can then be directed precisely to a point. Of course, the intensity, the strength of the light, can also be controlled. The bundling and precise aiming make this technology so important for the treatment of pigmentation disorders. The two types of lasers used in a laser peel treatment (resurfacing) are the ablative and non-ablative lasers.

The lasers are used to destroy elements of the skin. This causes the new skin cells to grow back firmer. The ablative lasers are intense and remove skin, the non-ablative lasers work in the dermis. They stimulate collagen growth and tightening processes. With the ablative method, one should expect slight side effects.

Recommendation for use

The ablative laser method is said to give better results on fair skin. Since skin is different from person to person, it also reacts differently. It can even happen that with non-ablative laser exactly the opposite was achieved and the skin became darker and not lighter. In this case, too, one should consult a dermatologist in order to achieve an optimal result.

6. intensive pulsed light therapy (IPL) 

Another type of laser therapy is IPL therapy, it is performed with non-ablative laser. It also targets the dermis, where the rays stimulate collagen growth. This is also called photofacial therapy, which usually requires several sessions.

The IPL method is used for general problems with pigmentation disorders. A positive side effect is that the appearance of spider veins, enlarged pores and wrinkles is reduced. The IPL method achieves the best results on flat areas of skin.

Recommendation for use

IPL, like laser peel, works best for treatments on fair skin.

7. microdermabrasion

Microdermabrasion is a procedure that carefully removes the top layers of skin using small (micro) particles. This procedure can also be done by yourself, but the best results are achieved by specialists (dermatologist or beautician) who use this therapy on a daily basis.

The treatment itself is done with a handy device and can be compared to sandblasting, but with the difference that the treatment of the skin is very gentle. A visible result requires several treatment sessions.

Recommendation for use

The best results are achieved on superficial scars and on people with fair skin. A dermatologist should be consulted before treatment.

8. dermabrasion

Like microdermabrasion, dermabrasion is about removing the upper layers of the skin, but dermabrasion goes deeper. Therefore, a dermatologist's office should also be consulted for this treatment.

This method smoothes wrinkles and treats texture problems in the upper layer of the skin. The following problem areas can be treated well.

Recommendation for use

Acne scars

Age spots

Scars from chickenpox

Scars from injuries

Damage due to excessive sun exposure

The treatment itself is similar to microdermabrasion, but this application goes deeper and removes more tissue. You also get faster results with dermabrasion.

This method is very suitable for problem areas on light skin. If the skin tone is medium, further hyperpigmentation may develop after the treatment, but this does not have to be permanent and often diminishes after about eight weeks.

Which method for which skin type?

Skin type always plays a crucial role in the previously mentioned treatment methods. Experts say that some of the treatment methods are applicable for people with light, medium and dark skin tone. But the darker the skin type, the more time it takes to complete the treatment. Light skin responds well to most procedures for hyperpigmentation.

For darker skin or skin that tans easily, do not consider the following treatments:

Intensive laser beams

IPL therapy

For darker skin, the following treatments are recommended:

Glycolic acid peeling

Kojic acid peeling

Lightening creams without prescription

Microdermabrasion

Gentle chemical peels

Low intensity laser treatments

It always takes a little longer for topical treatments to show visible results. Therefore, patience is required to achieve a good result.

It has already been mentioned in the presentation of the different therapy methods that you should go to a dermatological practice for hyperpigmentation. The dermatologist can best judge which method is advisable for your specific problem and your skin. He can draw up a treatment plan together with you.

In general, however, it can be said that the more intense sunlight caused by global environmental changes and the resulting increase in UV radiation mean that the skin needs to be better protected. This is the best way to prevent sun damage and hyperpigmentation. For people with fair and sensitive skin, daily application of sunscreen is a must in summer - even if the sky is only fair to cloudy. The sun protection factor of the cream you use should not be below factor 30.